Although I have already published a video of the A4 Pacific Class Add-On for RailWorks, today I have decided to release another using the recently released RailWorks 3 – Train Simulator 2012 software and the update provided for the A4 add-on.

Below is a video of the footage I captured and you will certainly notice the difference in graphical quality as the shadows and lighting in particular stand out wonderfully.

Please note that the sound in the video cuts out a little at times, but this is down to the capturing settings not the rail simulator!

For reference, here is the original video from RailWorks for comparison:

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James Woodcock

James is a Freelance Journalist, Copywriter, Author, Blogger & Podcaster specialising in gaming, gadgets and technology, both retro and modern. Ever since he experienced the first controllable pixel movement on the television screen, he has been entranced by the possibilities and rewarding entertainment value generated from these metal and plastic boxes of delight. Writing hundreds of articles, including commentary and reviews on various gaming platforms, whilst also interviewing well-known industry figures for popular online publications. Creator of the ScummVM Music Enhancement Project and host of the Game & Gadget Podcast. View his portfolio here: James Woodcock's Portfolio.

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6 thoughts on “Train Simulator 2012 Gameplay – A4 Pacific Class Add-On [VIDEO]

  • Hi James,
    Train movements seem slightly jerky – does this happen on real gameplay. The images of the A4, especially inside the cab are too dark to make out what is happening – is this due to how image was captured? – I suppose real game play image is much enhanced.

    • When capturing gameplay footage from a PC using in my case Fraps, the framerate and ‘jerkyness’ as you put it is affected.

      • Dear Mr.Woodcock Sir,
        I have Spent Hundreds of £’s and Hundreds of Hours so far, trying to remove All the Stuttering that Occurs in Railworks3!
        I came across your Website through the A4 News on “JustTrains” – And I have almost EVEEEEERRRRYYY Add-on that they Do.
        Indeed, in General, it is Possible to get a “Natural Effect of Running”, Upto 74mph, on the A4’s etc., Without having to Spend as much as I have – My Purpose has been to Prove the State that even a Moderate System can Look Good!
        The Various Standard Settings on the Initial Screen, and the Option Settings in the Game, Coupled to Video Card Settings, all have enough Choices for ANYYYY-ONNNE!
        Now, I have a few more Tricks up my Sleeve, that I am Currently Investigating and If I Ever Get to Perfection, I’ll Post the Results EVVERRRYWHERRRE!!
        The Sticky Point just now is that as you Run along the Track, Scenery in the Distance Constructs itself, and Stalls the Video for a Moment. So, I am playing with my QUAD Cores to try to Build the Distance in Smaller Stages, and Also I would like to Remove Scenery that we have already Passed (After Saving the Scenario of course).
        So, if Any-One has any Ideas how I can Achieve my Goal, I would be Happy to Hear From.
        With Kindest Regards
        Pentacone Peter.
        PS:- My Friend Clive, has the, “Top of The Range” Gaming System – Worth Thousands, and His is No better Than Mine!!

        • Mr.Woodcock,
          Thank You Very Much for Posting my Last Comments.
          A While has gone by now, and I have been Working Diligently.
          My “Video Motion” is Exceptional Now.
          So, here are a Few “Rules” to Succeed:-
          1)      Ensure that there are No Other Programs Working in the Background (Use “Task Manager” by Operating “Ctrl+Alt+Delete”, and look at “Applications”)
          2)      Run the Game in “Offline” Mode:- Begin “Steam Library”, and Click on the Top Right Heading “Steam” – “Go Offline”. You will know when you have been successful, because the “Steam” Icon on the Bottom Right Task Bar will have Red Writing on it (I have a USB Wireless Adaptor, on a Length of USB Wire, which I can Easily Un-Plug, thus Connecting and Disconnecting from the Internet. (This stops “Steam” from Updating, or Advertising Other Games, whilst I’m doing Something “Far More Important” – Playing!!)
          3)      Having the “Very Latest” Graphics Drivers is NOT Necessarily the Best Condition! I have tried numerous Video Cards, and Some just Crash and Stutter when Internet Browsing, and in Gameplay. I have Spent lots of Time Speaking with Microsoft Support (USA) and AMD/Ati. We have Tried Many Different Software Modifications, and I have Eventually Purchased a “Gigabyte” Version of the HD6750 (1GB DDR5). I would Recommend the “Visual Quality” of All the Gigabyte Company’s Products.
          4)      It is Not a Case of “Over-Driving” the Video Card in Order to get the Best Graphics, indeed “Under-Driving” with “This” Game often Works Wonders (Bear in Mind that we are Travelling at Reasonably Low Speeds – Leaving Stations and Cruising through the Countryside, etc.,) It is Beneficial to Check the Various Settings in the 3D Menu of the Cards – Mainly Setting to “Use Game Application Settings”, then there are just a few Other Settings that can be Experimented with (Experiment with a Piece of Game where you are Leaving a Station, Increasing Speed and Aiming for the Next Station – This should be “Saved-F2”, and thus Repeatable, for the Stutters are Also Repeatable!)
          5)      Now, Go Into the Game (In Offline Mode) and Check the “Setting” Menu. Set the Application  to “Low”, the TSX to “On”, and the “Multi-Core” to “On” also (The Detail in the Game is Such that These Settings give More Than Adequate Realism!)
          6)      Load the Game (“Start”) and Enter the “Options” Menu. Again, Begin with “Low” Graphics and then go to “Custom” and Gently Increase Each of the Settings, whilst Running and Re-Running the Scenario Previously Saved. Most Settings are More than Happy around “Medium to High”, and it seems to be the “Shadows” Adjustments that Slow the Video Down.
          7)      Go into the “Sound” Menu and Reduce the Ambient Sounds to 25% – There is Really No Need to hear Birds Singing, whilst Running at 60mph!
          8)      Now, with the Help of “”, we have Realised that the Main Stuttering of the Video Play is due to the “Detail Level” of Individual Components in the Various Routes. I believe that JustTrains are looking into their Routes “Bristol to Exeter” and “Totham”, to Check the Level at the Particular Points of a “Stall” (Just to help Clarify, when approaching a Station, where there are Platforms, Buildings, Gantries, Houses, Factories, Trees, etc., etc., etc.. Then Each Item should have a Setting of at least “2” and No More Than “5” (Out of “10”) We can get away with This, since the Game-Play Smoothness is more important than an Astonishing 3D Illusion of some “Row of Houses”, way over in the Distance, that can only be Seen from a Very high Vantage Point! Now, I cannot say how Long we will have to Wait for a Route Upgrade Package, But, I have found that it is Quite Easy to “Edit” your Favourite Route, and to Simply “Click” onto the Various Scenery Items and Adjust their Detail Levels (In the Right Hand Menu). Details of how to do these things can be found on the “” Web-Site under “Support”, or if you are one of the Lucky Ones, in the “Creator” Manual provided in the Original Edition of “Railworks”.
          9)      I am just thinking here what I have done to my PC, which Actually Gave a Boost in Realism Quality, so, this included: Changing from a Dual Core Processor to a Quad Core (Not a Massive Difference I will say Here), Adding an Extra 2 GB of Memory (Now 4GB Total, which is All my Motherboard could handle with WinXP 32 Bit – And THIS was a Great Improvement for £20 ish); The Change to the Gigabyte HD6750 Video Card (£100 ish. Please note that the DVI Sockets of Various Cards have Various Outputs. Some are Purely Digital and Others, Both Digital & Analogue. I needed the Analogue Outputs, so that I can Play on Both my LCD Monitor and Old, Plasma 43” TV with remote Keyboard and Mouse Facilities. This took Loads of Experiments to Establish!). Then there is the PSU. At least 550 Watts is Great, and 700Watts is even Greater – “What a Video Improvement for just £20”. Now, I am also remembering here, the “Monitor” Set-Up. Experiment with Different Resolution Settings, dependant on your “Windows” Software and the Screen Capabilities – Again, keep it Lower Rather than Higher!
          So, there we have it, a Few Pointers.
          And the Pleasure that I am having with the “Realism” of Running a Train, is Breath-Taking!
          Kindest Regards,
          Pentacone Peter.



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